Success at the finish line in Provincetown. Thanks for reading! |
Tuesday 24 September 2013
Wednesday 31 July 2013
Mt. Rainier
Hello and welcome! The 2013 Pan-Mass Challenge is mere days away, and I have arrived back in Massachusetts to readjust to the time zone (and the heat) and go for a couple of last rides before the big day. My hometown of Boxborough is great for cycling, with rolling country roads winding through farmland that hasn't changed much since before the American Revolutionary War started not far from here. Not a bad place to keep the legs limber until the ride. The donations continue to roll in, I am at about $2,000, or almost halfway to my $4,500 goal by the October deadline. Thanks to everyone for your generosity, and if you haven't had a chance please go to my PMC profile and donate if you can. PMC riders pay additional registration fees to cover the cost of infrastructure and organization for the event, so every single penny of your donations goes to the Dana-Farber Cancer Institute. I've got an exciting story for you this time! My first summer of graduate school research did not leave me with a whole lot of time for major mountaineering objectives, and I have had to content myself with the smaller ranges around Vancouver. I wanted to get up onto at least one high summit before the ride, so with a few days to spare before leaving for the east coast I committed myself to driving down into Washington state and taking a shot at the most serious mountaineering objective in the lower 48.
Jamie and I nearing the Muir snowfield at about 7,000' on Mt. Rainier. |
At 14,400' Mt. Rainier is the highest Cascade volcano. It is one of the furthest north, the most glaciated and far more technically challenging than any of the others. It is definitely the jewel in the collection of any Cascade volcano peakbagger and one that I had been dreaming about since starting to climb in this range. My old friend Jamie had flown out from Boston, so we made a plan to climb the mountain we had been talking about since our first hikes together on New Hampshire's Mt. Washington.
Setting up at Camp Muir, 10,000'. |
I drove the 5 hours south from Vancouver to Mt. Rainier National Park, found a campsite and waited for Jamie to arrive from the Oregon desert where he had been climbing at Smith Rock State Park. The next morning we organized our gear and drove up to the Paradise ranger station to register our climb and get our permits. These permits are required for anyone planning to travel above 10,000 feet on the mountain, and are used to be sure climbers return by their expected date. Those who do not are assumed lost or worse and will have search and rescue initiated to find them. Needless to say, one takes care while filling out this kind of paperwork. After we had crossed all the t's etc. we chugged some last minute water, shouldered our packs and headed up the skyline hiking trail towards the Muir snowfield.
Camp Muir on the Cowlitz Glacier. |
The Muir snowfield is the first tough part of any climb of Rainier up this side of the mountain. It is five miles of relentless, featureless uphill slog in blazing hot sun. The snowfield climbs from 5,000 to 10,000 feet so altitude is not a huge issue, but the sun is killer and our packs were loaded down with tents, sleeping bags, several days worth of food and fuel, climbing gear and ropes. It was a seemingly endless afternoon, I spent half of it relishing the PMC training I was getting, and the other half cursing Jamie for dragging ass all morning leaving us to climb the snowfield in the heat of the afternoon. All in all I felt pretty great, I'm a bit of a Cascade veteran at this point and have learned the painful importance of sunscreen, and also of chugging water like a crazy person in the days and hours before a climb like this. These things, plus a spring's worth of PMC training led to a surprisingly easy climb. Let me qualify that statement by saying that by 'easy' I mean I didn't think I was going to die before completing the next ten steps. It was not easy, but it was the least painful high altitude approach day I can remember. We breezed by other climbers, huffing and puffing and trying to keep it together. I had never before felt the positive impact of training quite like it, I began to feel pretty OK about this whole godforsaken PMC idea. By the time the sun had hit its high point and began its journey back down we were nearing our camp, and the mountain ranges and volcanoes to our south were laid out before us.
Guide's huts at Camp Muir near sundown. |
The view from Camp Muir. The Tatoosh Range foreground. Mt. Adams, WA (12,500') background left and Mt. Hood, OR (11,300') background right. |
The upper mountain and views of Mt. Adams. |
The route we climbed is called the Disappointment Cleaver, and the poor snow season over the winter combined with warmer than average temperatures had left it in pretty bad shape. Typical snow slopes were turned into steep ice pitches and the thin snow cover exposed crevasses that you could lose your house in. As we moved carefully upward the lack of sleep and acclimatization time began to catch up with me. The route gets difficult between about 12,000 and 13,000 feet, where climbers must ascend the Disappointment Cleaver itself. This is a fin of crumbling rock that is climbed to reach the upper Ingraham Glacier icefall. This was the section to watch out for, exhaustion and altitude effects have set in while at the same time the terrain requires absolute concentration. It is important to move quickly through many areas to avoid lingering below unstable seracs, but every step must be flawlessly placed. A fall could send you and your partner down a steep slope, if the snow is too hard to stop yourself then you're going into a crevasse and then hundreds of feet to the bottom. At this point I was very glad for my months of PMC preparation.
Jamie nearing the final snowslopes on the upper mountain. 13,500'. |
Once above the upper Ingraham Glacier the most technical and dangerous parts are over, the terrain flattens out a little bit and from there to the summit is a more gentle climb. I was glad that the scary stuff was over for the time being, but the final slopes to the top are a real struggle. The pace is painfully slow but you're going as fast as you possibly can, you can see the top but it never seems to get any closer. It's always funny to me planning our next moves in these situations, telling ourselves that we'll take a break in an hour when we get to that rock 100 feet in front of us. Our rapid ascent and lack of time to prepare and acclimatize meant that dehydration, exhaustion and altitude sickness were most definitely hitting us pretty hard at this point. As painful as it is, this close to the top and after everything we've done to get here, turning back is not an option. The only option is to take one more step, and then one more step.
Climbers negotiate the Ingraham Glacier icefall at 13,000'. Don't blow it here. |
From a little further.. |
Further still. Those climbers are in the upper left hand corner. |
Finally, right around 8 am we reached the height of land and walked into the summit crater at 14,400 feet. I have to admit, although I had dreamt of this moment for years, all I could think about was nausea. I toppled over and fell asleep (or possibly unconscious) for a good 20 minutes. By the time I came to, I was feeling slightly better and was able to enjoy our hard earned summit. We took a few photos, I choked down half a bagel, and we began to prepare ourselves for a descent that neither of us were looking forward to.
Summit shot. Mt. Rainier, 14,400'. |
Representing PMC. |
Any conservative mountaineer like myself knows that to celebrate too much at the top of a dangerous mountain is to tempt the gods to put you in your place. Any responsible mountaineer knows that the vast majority of climbing mishaps happen on the way down, not up. Energy reserves are low, concentration lacks and the business of down-climbing sketchy ice and snow slopes is just more likely to result in a fall. Add to that the fact that the sun was climbing higher in the sky and the snow was softening quickly leading to dangerous instability. We remained on top just long enough to gather our wits, and then started down.
Layers of ash and lava flows from previous eruptions. |
Thankfully the trip down was mostly uneventful. We were caught in a little bit of a bottleneck on some of the more dangerous sections, which was rather unnerving. When the weather is right for a summit attempt, climbers from all around come out to take a shot. If enough climbers are trying to pass through the same difficult and dangerous sections, traffic jams can form leaving you to wait, perched on a soft snow ledge next to a bottomless crevasse. After dealing with the icefall and the Cleaver we were mostly out of the woods. At the bottom of the Cleaver, just as we thought we were moving out of the danger zone, a basketball-sized rock came tumbling down off of a cliff above and struck a climber just a few feet in front of us. Jamie's quick wits and a loud warning may have saved this climber, it struck her arms as she raised them to protect her head. Yet another reminder not to let your guard down until the mountain is in the rear view mirror of your car.
Waiting for our turn to climb down the icefall. |
Nearing camp. |
Paradise earned. (Mi9.com) |
Sunday 21 July 2013
The Black Tusk
Just a couple of weeks now until the the ride, and I'm feeling pretty good. The rides have been getting longer and tougher, and the steep British Columbia hill-climbs seem easier every time. PMC donors have raised over $16,000,000.00 so far this year but we're not done yet with another 20 million or so to go, so please donate if you can! I finally managed to get up into some real mountains this past week, on an overnighter with Bailey and the UBC outdoor club to The Black Tusk.
Hiking through Taylor Meadows at 5,000' in Garibaldi Provincial Park. |
Mt. Garibaldi is the highest peak in the Vancouver area, a dormant stratovolcano that sits just north of the town of Squamish, a couple of hours drive from the city. It is the centerpiece of the amazing Garibaldi Provincial Park, 750 square miles of rugged peaks, glaciers and alpine lakes. The park offers backpacking, mountaineering and rock climbing, and in the winter world class ski touring. This time I would be heading to Garibaldi for a two day trip up the Black Tusk, an ancient and extinct volcano and now a crumbling tower of frozen lava. At 7,600 feet the Tusk is a worthy challenge, and while it can be done in a long day by a fit party, we decided to load up with heavy overnight gear and enjoy a full weekend in the alpine.
A very pleasant camp at Taylor Meadows. |
We started the weekend with a five mile hike through the usual forest of giants, up to the Taylor Meadows camp just below treeline at 5,000 feet. The system of trails leading up to the alpine here is very well used, being so close to the city and offering relatively easy access to some of the best views in southern British Columbia. The trails lower down on the mountain are wide and well maintained so the crowds were not a problem, and we made it out of the big trees and up onto the alpine flats by early afternoon.
Nearing treeline on The Black Tusk. The Tantalus Range, across the Squamish Valley, in the background. |
We set up camp and ate a sandwich, and made our plans for the summit. On most summer mountaineering trips on high glaciated peaks, the middle of the afternoon is not the time to make a summit attempt. By the time the sun has fully risen these mountains are a dangerous mess of soft snow and crumbling rock. The mountain is most stable in the early morning hours, when the snow has had a chance to refreeze overnight. Climbers will often get an 'alpine start', rising well before dawn in the hopes of being on the summit by sunrise and off the most dangerous slopes before the midday sun hits them. This strategy also minimizes the amount of time that climbers are exposed to the sun, from which there is no escape. The sun at higher altitudes can be particularly strong, and reflects off of the snow to burn every unprotected corner of skin. Besides sunburn, this kind of exposure can exhaust climbers and cause dehydration and even snow blindness. On serious high altitude ventures above 10,000 feet this schedule is also imperative in order to acclimatize to the lower oxygen environment. Climb too high too fast and one is at severe risk for altitude sickness, though this would not be a problem for us on the Tusk.
Bailey takes in some views from the snowfields on the Tusk. |
Given all of this, we had the decision to keep heading for the summit that same day, or hang out for the rest of the afternoon and set off early the next morning. The Tusk is really only a half serious objective, there are no glacier crossings on the route we had ahead of us, and the poor snow season this winter in B.C. meant that there was little snow cover left. We also had the prospect of a long afternoon at camp with little to do and lots of mosquitoes. We did all the math, and decided that the route was short enough that we might as well give it a shot that afternoon, and turn back if the sun became too much to handle.
Final snow and scree slopes before the summit pinnacle. |
So, we packed up water and food, helmets, extra layers and lots of sunscreen and hit the trail once again. We made our way up through the last of the thinning trees and into steepening alpine meadows. The meadows eventually gave way to dreaded scree, steep slopes of loose rock and ash from eruptions past that slide out from underneath you with every step. Travel over this stuff is quite literally two steps forward one step back, and can be pretty tiring in the hot sun. This finally turned to snow cover, and we had a reasonably easy climb up to the final summit spire as views of the Coast Range opened up around us.
Bailey negotiates the summit scramble at 7,000' on the Tusk. |
Having a good time. |
Mt. Garibaldi 8,800' and Garibaldi Lake from near the top. |
Crushed it. |
Bingo! |
Finally at the top, we relaxed and took photos and congratulated ourselves on a job well done. We soaked in the 360 degree views of high glaciated peaks, and chugged water. I'll admit that after going from sea level to nearly 8,000 feet in a single day, I had a couple of waves of the familiar altitude nausea but managed to keep it together until we began making our way lower down.
Feeling congratulatory on the way down. |
We hiked our way back down to camp, ate food, drank water and tried to relax in clouds of voracious mosquitoes. The next day we packed up camp and headed off the mountain, but not before a stop at Garibaldi Lake. This is the catchment for all the glacial melt water coming out of these mountains. It is crystal clear, freezing cold and a spectacular shade of blue as a result of fine glacially milled rock dust suspended in the water. It was painfully cold, but a welcome reprieve from the heat of the afternoon. After a swim and a sandwich we hiked our way out of the park and back to the cars. Another summit, another great weekend in the mountains and a good 20 miles and 8,000 feet of PMC training.
Taking a dip in Garibaldi Lake. Brr. |
Hiking past Garibaldi Lake on the way out. |
That's all I got on that one. I'll be heading back to Massachusetts in a week or so, but not before taking a shot at the highest Cascade volcano, 14,400 foot Mt. Rainier in Washington. I'll get a blog up on that one before the ride so check back for that. Please check out my PMC profile page and donate if you can, thanks for stopping by!
Tuesday 16 July 2013
St. Mark's Summit
Canada Day fireworks off of West Vancouver viewed across English Bay from Kitsilano Beach. |
Hi there, thanks for stopping by! The locals are out, the tourists have arrived and summer is in full swing here in Vancouver. Just as I had hoped, July so far has been dry as a bone, and the outdoor activities and opportunities for fun in the sun are boundless. I have been keeping it up for the PMC, biking, hiking, running, lifting, climbing, walking and swimming. It has been a lot of fun but not always easy, and I have not yet found the time away from school to go for a big mountaineering objective. This has been depressing to say the least, but the summer still has plenty of life left in her and I will get above the clouds soon enough. Before I fill you in on the last couple of weeks of good times let me update you on the more than $14,000,000.00 raised so far for the PMC! We have just a few more weeks before the ride, and a few more months before the October deadline to reach the $38,000,000.00 goal. I know we can do it but we're going to have to dig deep, which incidentally is what I say to myself right before blacking out on the spin bike in front of Canada's hippest.
The Kitsilano Beach saltwater pool. Downtown West End and North Shore Mountains in the background. |
Once the clouds and rain finally scram Vancouver turns into a summer paradise, and every corner of the city seems to offer up something different. I don't mind telling you that our own neighborhood of Kitsilano Beach is one of the best. Besides the beach of course there's the 450 foot long beachfront saltwater pool, parks, lawns, basketball and tennis courts and the seawall bike path that will take you pretty much anywhere in the city. It is nearly impossible to be sedentary here, and also nearly impossible to walk by it all on my way to work in the morning. As hard as it has been to juggle a master's program and PMC training, I couldn't imagine a better place to have to juggle it all. Not far from all this, right across English Bay, are the North Shore Mountains which is where Bailey, Evan and I went for a day hike this week.
Deep in the North Shore Mountains. |
The North Shore Mountains rise steeply from sea level to about 5,000 feet just north of Vancouver. Their rugged slopes directly abut the city of North Vancouver, where dense urban neighborhoods stop and wilderness begins. This wilderness continues northwards into the vast British Columbia Coast Range, and one would have to go over the Arctic and into Russia before finding another city of any considerable size. These mountains dominate the view to the north from anywhere in Vancouver, and are a great place for a hiking, camping, skiing and climbing right outside the city. With a free Saturday, Bailey and I invited my co-worker Evan to drive up to the Cypress Ski Resort and hike along the Howe Sound Crest to St. Mark's summit.
The Lions (5,400') from the Howe Sound Crest Trail. |
The Howe Sound Crest Trail runs along a ridge high above the Pacific, going through dense rainforest and over 5,000 foot peaks. It is a great place for training, the views are incredible, the trail is in great shape and the summits are all of varying difficulty. With just a Saturday afternoon to burn we would be doing a relatively short section of the trail from the Cypress Resort to St. Mark's Summit. With good weather and good trail, we decided to be happy with our short day and do it as fast as we could to get some good cardio pump. We did about 8 miles and 1500 feet of elevation, and we did it in about 3 hours, with another hour or so on top so soak up the views. The mountains here rise so steeply out of Howe Sound that the shoreline is almost directly below the ridge, and views from the peaks leave you feeling like you are floating right over the sea. Tiny ferries zip around below your feet on their way to Vancouver Island, and the Sea-to-Sky highway snakes along the shore just out of reach.
Bailey and Evan enjoy some views. |
Howe Sound and the Bowen Island group from St. Mark's Summit. |
Cooling off in some snowmelt. Beautiful. |
Saturday 29 June 2013
Stanley Park and Tough Mudder Whistler
Hello and welcome all! Here's hoping the summer finds you well. British Columbia seems rather stuck in the past weather-wise, and we still live under clouds and rain for at least half of every week. Not to worry though, as the good stuff usually waits until July to show up. Classes at UBC have been out since April, but work on the research project continues and things have been pretty busy in the lab. I've still been getting out as much as I can, and I'd like to tell you about a couple of recent workouts! But first, I wanted to mention that all you wonderful donors have reached $10,000,000 in contributions to the 2013 PMC! So thank you! The PMC is still a long way off of its goal however, and so am I! Please donate to this great cause if you can. This time around I'll be taking you back to the great Stanley Park here in Vancouver, and to the Whistler Olympic Park for Tough Mudder Whistler.
Taking a photo break at Prospect Point, Stanley Park. Lions Gate Bridge and North Shore Mountains in background. |
Evan being Evan. |
Bikers on Stanley Park Drive and the slow moving seawall bike path. Vancouver Harbor in background. |
Evan being Evan. |
Next, a ride up the Sea-to-Sky highway to the Whistler Olympic Park for Tough Mudder Whistler. The Olympic Park is located a few miles south of the Whistler Village ski resort area, and was the location of the nordic events for 2010 Winter Olympic Games. Today its trails remain open for public use and professional level competition, and occasionally a ridiculous event like Tough Mudder.
Me in the middle, hopping fences. Whistler Olympic Park. |
Nice scenery at Tough Mudder Whistler. Tough Mudder media photo. |
Monkey Bars obstacle. Tough Mudder media photo. |
The ice bath, I almost died on this one. Tough Mudder media photo. |
Idiots running up the 2010 Olympic ski jump track, this was a bitch. Tough Mudder media photo. |
Your correspondent running through live electrical wires to the finish line. Ridiculous. |
Rob made the webpage. Tough Mudder media photo. |
Friday 14 June 2013
Stawamus Chief
Hello friends. Time is flying I'll tell you what, and it's hard to believe the ride is already less than two months away. I have kept up training pretty well, and have moved all cardiovascular exercise (except for climbing, of course) over to the bike. The weather is getting better fast, and the higher mountains are calling my name. I'm itching to carve out some time from school and do something big. Maybe another shot at Mt. Baker, which you may remember I was laughed off of a couple of months ago by foul winter weather and poor-at-best ski technique. For now I am contenting myself with shorter conditioning hikes closer to the city. This week I was on Hollyburn Mountain at the Cypress Bowl ski area just outside of the city. Cypress is one of three ski resorts whose floodlights illuminate the clouds over Vancouver all winter, you can drive to the chairlifts from downtown in less than a half an hour. I went up with the UBC outdoor club to help teach a class on basic mountaineering skills. The resort closed for summer several weeks ago, but there is plenty of snow higher up so it seemed a perfectly convenient place to teach rope-work and crampon technique. The clouds didn't clear once that day so I didn't bother with any photos. You'll have to take my word for it.
The big wall on the Stawamus Chief, Squamish B.C. Almost 2,000 feet of vertical granite, not for the faint of heart. |
Last weekend my girlfriend Bailey had her sister in town for a visit, so the three of us and my co-worker Evan headed up to Squamish to hike the Stawamus Chief. The Chief is a 2,000 foot fin of granite that rises precipitously from sea level at the head of Howe Sound. It is considered to be a place of spiritual signifigance by the indigenous Sḵwxwú7mesh people, and is named after one of their villages. It is a popular rock-climbing destination, offering everything from small practice crags to epic big wall ascents on a near Yosemite scale. It also has a short and steep hiking trail, climbing over 2,000 feet in about a mile. A great afternoon of conditioning to be sure, but being so close to Vancouver it is infamously swamped with tourists and locals alike on most nice days of the summer. Bailey and I had never done it, so we figured we would brave the crowds at least once to see what all the fuss was about.
Mastering the stairs on the Chief Peaks hiking trail. |
It didn't take long to realize what we had signed up for. After pulling into a packed parking lot we made our way to the trailhead and joined the train of people headed up steep staircases into the woods. In any other city the busy trails would have made it hard to get in a good workout, but thankfully we live in Vancouver and the line of spandex clad tushes moved pretty fast. This hike is very short and equally painful. The trail is well maintained and a lot of it is covered by stairs, but they're steep and relentless. It was basically an afternoon on the stair-stepper with nicer views.
Traffic jam on one of the bolted chain sections near the top of the Chief. |
Nearing the top the trees clear out and you wind up hiking over granite slabs to the summit. This was fairly pleasant except for the traffic jams at one way chain sections and ladders. Beautiful views can be hampered slightly by the sounds of irate hikers arguing over right of way. Bottlenecks aside, we made it to the top and were greeted with sunshine and sandwiches.
The view from the top. The B.C. Coast Mountains rise out of the Pacific Ocean at Howe Sound, Squamish B.C. |
Hikers on top of First Peak (2,100') on the Stawamus Chief. |
Victory pose. |
Atwell Peak (8,700') in the clouds, framed by cliffs on the Chief. |
We spent a glorious couple of hours on top, soaking in the sunshine and taking ridiculous photographs of each other. Afterwards we found a more round about trail through the woods to get ourselves back down, avoiding most of the crowds and having a grand old time. I don't regret my hike on the Chief, but I won't be doing it again soon. Intense crowds, while something we all need to get used to on the more popular trails, can definitely take away from the experience of being outdoors. More than this, it is an increased stress on the delicate ecosystems that we must disturb to get our fix. I guess this is just another reason to go further and higher.
Pleasant trails down. |
That's it for this one folks, short and sweet just like the Chief. I'll be taking a few laps around Stanley Park tomorrow morning on the road bike, and I'm sure I'll tell you all about it. I'm not exactly sure what else is in store for the next month except to say that plans are forming, and I cannot seem to dislodge the word Rainier from my mind. The PMC 2013 fundraising total is over $8,000,000.00 so far. This is an incredible number but still far short of the $38M goal so please please donate if you can! I also wanted to let you know about an article I read recently on the Dana-Farber blog about how 75% of all pediatric cancer patients today will be cured of their disease! This kind of great news is a direct result and proportionally related to the generosity of benefactors like you. Thanks for reading, stay posted!
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